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Owen showing the way on the full version of Shrek sds 7B+/C photos Hayward collection


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Owen Hayward has returned to the Sheep Pen Boulders in the Ogwen Valley and extended his own problem Shrek to a more logical starting position. The new version essentially links Terrapin into the finish of Rumplestiltskin via a tenuous sequence that stays below the top of the boulder all the way to the last move.

Follow Terrapin for a few moves to get established in a bear hug position on the front of the prow with your left hand on the good shoulder and your right on the big sloper out right. Traverse right along the lower lip past an obvious side pull to get the cluster of three edges at the end of the Rumplestiltskin traverse. Slap the top and mantel out.

"It takes in all the hard bits on Terrapin and all of the old Shrek. At least a grade harder than Terrapin so I guess maybe 7B+/C? Whatever the grade it’s on great rock and the climbing is superb."

Explained Owen after the ascent.

Owen also nipped back today and added a final link, starting as for the Shrek sds to gain the sloping shoulder then making an awkward transition left across the small groove to reach diagonal jugs and a pumpy finish left along the Gollum traverse. This rates 7B+.

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