Pete Robins continues his Ogwen Valley campaign with yet another gobsmacking addition. Snapdragon 8A climbs the obvious sloping lip line sat right by the roadside just down from the Bogside/Louisville Lip area, i.e. about 500m towards Capel Curig from the Ogwen Cottage.
The line was first tried by Dave Noden about five years ago; Dave did manage to climb the first section into the hanging corner but then rocked back right to gain the higher thin break (about 7C+/8A to here). Unsatisfied with this outcome Dave chose not to claim it; the obvious leftwards extension remained as the true challenge.
This winter Pete became interested and started working out the moves in some very snowy conditions. Each section took a lot of sussing out and there are numerous small but crucial moves required to make progress – go out of sequence and you’re off!
Eventually he cracked all of it up to the obvious flat jug above the arête feature. A quick cleaning session on a rope revealed some useful slots on the upper slab and the redpoint was on. Come Thursday the snow had receded and conditions were good: cold and dry.
Getting along the slopers and into the corner gave the first crux. Pete then matched a guppy on the arête – this was also hard. Next he reached a crimp in the roof to the left and slapped optimistically for the big flat jug up and left from the arete. A quick match and a final big move to the slots on the upper slab saw him make a successful top out.
“It’s absolutely mega, a three star classic and definitely the line of the valley!”
Enthused Pete after the ascent.