Last summer Dave Noden went for a wander round Maes Newyddion woods in Betws y Coed with his newborn son in tow. The youth pointed into the undergrowth and despite doubting the possibility of finding anything worthwhile Dave followed his suggestion only to bump into a rather large roof feature composed of excellent rock and featured just right for a superb problem at a satisfyingly challenging grade.

Midges, damp rock, ice and, of course, the sleep deprivation associated with fatherhood, kept Dave from nailing the final redpoint until this week when it all came good and he topped out a very happy man.

“So it’s ace, about 7C or + but with a big question mark as I am sleep deprived and have no idea how well or otherwise I am climbing. It’s in Maes Newyddion, which is first on right after Swallow Falls Hotel, up the forestry road. There is parking before the gate which says residents only. About 0.4 miles up there on right is a rough cut track which you can see the boulder up. It’s after two prominent hairpins. There are laybys either side of the track about 80m before the boulder.”

Explained Dave.

To read more about the ascent and see a film of the first ascent check out Dave’s blog .

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