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Byron on his super steep problem, Sunset Sit 7C+ Photos: Peter Wilkinson


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Byron Orde has made another excellent addition to the Pantymwyn roster (see the link at the bottom for previous first ascent action). Sunset Sit 7C+ is a low level sitter which climbs into the start of Pantys Down and exits up this line to finish.

Its a monkey up a stick line, very overhanging, and requiring a fair bit of tension, which is probably why it's taken me about half a year of trying on and off to do! The crux for me was dealing with the feet, both removing them from the good holds (heel-toe, first move), and keeping them on the bad holds, including a particularly marginal heel before coming to the lip. After figuring those out it was purely the pump; I'd get into the undercut for Pantys Down SS a lot, only to find myself incapable of continuing (can be seen in video).

Explained Byron, before adding:

I could be off with the grade, up or down, it's taken me quite a while to do, more so than others of a similar grade, only repeats will tell I guess. Regardless the moves are great, and I really think it adds some nice variety to the crag, and there's plenty of 'new' link lines which could be done now it's there.

To see film of the first ascent click here.

Stop Press: Tom Williams has just made the second ascent but reports a broken hold: "The hold you can see Byron cross over to on the first move has freeze-thawed off. I re-climbed the line, finishing the same way as Byron did. Although I now suspect it is a bit harder and a solid 7C+."

Relevant links:
      Desperado Sit news item and film