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Pete on Lazarus Pit 7B+ Photos: Si Panton


Owen sticking the slopey lip on American Beauty 7A+/B


Owen on Robin 6C+


Pete on The Oracle 6C!

Owen Hayward and Pete Robins have climbed a quartet of excellent new problems at the Porth Nefoedd Bat Cave. Hardest of the bunch is the very steep left arÍte of the lower entrance. This fell to Pete and he has suggested a grade of 7B+ for Lazarus Pit. Start matched on the arÍte end of the obvious slopey rail and make powerful moves up to a possible impasse at the lip.

Slightly easier, but equally good, is American Beauty 7A+/B, which was climbed by Owen on the same day. This starts sitting inside the cave as per The Bacon Butty Start but once the lip is gained it veers off right. A desperate rightwards traverse of the slopey lip gains an obvious good diagonal hold. Rock up onto the slab and pad up to the top to finish.

Inside the cave itself Owen picked off another good line. Robin 6C+ climbs the slanting arÍte at the back on the left. Start sitting at its base using the obvious flake on the wall to the left and the arÍte. Move insecurely up the arÍte to an easier top out.

And lastly, Pete could not resist the challenge of the hanging arÍte to the right of American Beauty. He reached this from a standing start on the left and finished somewhat awkwardly round on the right side, reckoning 6C was a fair grade for The Oracle.

Relevant links:
      Bacon Butty Start news item