On Friday evening David Fidler climbed a smart new problem close to Eric’s Café at Tremadog.
Circus 7A+ is a compression style prow hidden in the woods just opposite the children crossing sign seen when walking away from the cafe in the direction of Craig Pant Ifan.
Start by an obvious sharp hold on the left of the boulder. Easy compression moves lead to a powerful toe hook, allowing you to rotate 90 degrees and get both hands on the right side of the block. Release the toe hook and finish by mantelling out on small slopers and dinks.
”People I showed it to the night I sent it mentioned the words ‘3 star neo-classic’, and ‘total class’, but it felt a bit eliminate due to the supporting block at the end (which is harder to use than just mantelling out), so maybe 2 stars. A lower start is possible but it's a bit of an arse dragger and doesn't add much difficulty, and might even detract from the quality.”
Explained David after the ascent.
There is also Funfair, a 6A sds on an adjacent boulder – this was climbed by Huw Brace.