Danny Cattell has climbed a couple of new problems on a perfect block of dolerite located on the north east side of the Carneddau mountain range by the upper stretch of Afon Dulyn at grid ref 726 674.
The Lad 7C is a standing start with hands on the head height jug, with a slap up to gain the obvious horizontal crackline above via poor edges. Mantel and top out.
Danny also did a 7A to the left. Ruddy Gim starts sitting on the obvious flake; the foot block that protrudes from the base of the boulder is in. Get a crimp with right and gain a slot in crack with your left, then make a hard pull up to a notch, match and top out awkwardly on the left.
Danny didn’t manage to film the successful ascent but did get footage of some attempts and one where he had the good hold but slipped off:
“The rock is amazing at this place. Shame there’s not much more there. Well, there is a really good 7B slab higher up that Sam did [full details and film footage to follow soon] and a few little projects, all on arguably the best rock in Britain – honestly – it’s the Crafnant stuff but slightly finer and more grit like. It’s top dollar dolerite, the brown stuff in its finest incarnation.”
Said Danny, before adding:
“It’s very grit like, in that the main hold I had to pull hard on, sometimes felt alright and sometimes felt crap so maybe in colder temps would feel a bit easier. I did try to do it again for the camera and pulled a massive flapper out of my finger in the process. That last go on the video is pretty much the problem done though, that right hand is good and you just rock over but my heel slipped.”
Approach: head up towards Llyn Eigiau off the road between Conwy and Betws y Coed (B5106) at Tal y Bont. From the Llandudno side, it is the first RH turn after a pub and bus stop. Follow the road up a very steep and windy hill all the way to the end. You usually have to open two gates. At the end of the road is a parking area on the right.
(15 mins) From the parking bay at the end of the road, climb the stile and head up the track for 5 minutes until a large boulder comes into view. Turn right and follow the track along the base of the hill, eventually crossing a stile before heading round the ridge until the upper Dulyn valley comes into view. Not far from the building and river, the boulder can be seen 100m off the track to the left. Danny has laid a few small rocks at the best point to start walking up towards the fence and boulder. Cross the fence where there is a large flat rock (which enables crossing without damaging it). The boulder is only 10m or so past the fence.