On Friday Danny Cattell climbed a hard new line at the Gop. Ken Masters 8A starts in the back of the cave down and right of E-Honda on some obvious undercuts, and comes directly out.
“The 7B problem Street Fighter no longer exists as the starting hold has disappeared, but this new thing climbs a similar patch of rock and supersedes it anyway with the proper start.”
“I managed to do it in one session which meant cleaning it up, figuring it all out and climbing it in a short space of time therefore the grade could be wrong. I don't think its Gop 8A+ but feels harder than Push the Button and about the same as Push the Button sds which is benchmark 8A. Either way its one of the best problems at the Gop.”
Explained Danny, before adding:
“On the same day Doylo pulled off an undercut which was a vital toe hook on Blokesmoker sds. I have not attempted it but I'm guessing that move is a fair bit harder now, although I doubt it’s changed the grade.”
“Funnily enough, on the same day Tom Newman did the 2nd ascent of Paper Birds and I did the 3rd, a year or so after the first ascent. Tom has a much more impressive cv than me and he reckons its hard for 8A+ and I'm guessing it probably would be 8B anywhere else in the world, but credit to Dan and Tom for maintaining the spirit of the Gop, i.e, it’s a sandbag.”
Chris Doyle was on hand to film the action:
Also of note on the North East Wales limestone, Ned Feehally recently linked Enter the Dragon into the 36 Chambers sds at Tremeirchion. Enter the Chamber still rates 8A+ as it is possible to get a kneebar rest on the starting tufa of 36 Chambers. He also climbed into 22 Chambers from the sds of Iron Flag to give 7th Chamber 7C+.