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Si doing his best to Mirror Ivy 7A+ Photos: Helen Cain


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Si Panton has climbed a feisty line on the steep walls of Pen-y-gogo, the previously untouched escarpment perched on the hillside close to Llanengan and above the east corner of Hellís Mouth on the Lleyn Peninsula.

Mirror Ivy 7A+ tackles the left side of the central ivy clad wall. It starts from a low crouch (or sds if you have a thick pad), right hand on obvious rounded out sidepull, and left hand on a good but very low sidepull. A powerful snatch up left gains a selection of holds. Make a tricky match and switch around before lurching up to the slopey lip. The top out is still difficult so keep fighting all the way.

ďI spotted it last year while out walking and made a mental note to return. Itís a great problem, in fact better than I expected. Iím not sure of the grade, it could be easier, but Iíll stick with 7A+ as it felt pretty intense. There's a beautiful, gnarly old Ivy tree clinging to the right side of the wall - I tried to match it's wall creeping abilities.Ē said Si after the ascent.

To reach the crag follow the footpath running south from Llanengan and past Tan Rallt Farm. The Pen-y-gogo escarpment is soon reached (5-10 mins) Ė the problem is on the first section you come to at OS grid ref 293 263.

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