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Pete on Mônster 8A Photo: Si Panton

Gav on Under the Thumb 7B Photo: Si Panton

Pete on Battle of the Bilge 7C/+ Photo: Si Panton

Si reaching the top of Puffin and Panton 6B+ Photo: Pete Robins

Andy finishing the Rock on Tommy traverse 6C Photo: Si Panton

Pete Robins has developed an excellent new limestone bouldering venue close to his new house on the north coast of Anglesey. At the western end of Fedw Fawr, just beyond the established sport routes (see the Gogarth North guide or the forthcoming North Wales Limestone guide for full details) there are two bays at the base of the sea cliff. These give a suite of excellent, burly boulder problems on perfect limestone.

The eastern bay, just to the right (facing in) of the right most sport route, has a flat wave cut platform landing covered in a thin layer of damp algae. A head high bulge/roof runs along the base of the cliff; most problems start in the low break beneath this and finish in the top break above the roof. The cliff above is normally dripping (like a broken shower head) but this doesn’t affect the boulderer at all – only the spotter! A second, central bay lies just to the right. There is a further bay to the right but there are a couple of nesting birds here so this is best left alone for now (it’s also not as good).

Over the years the bouldering potential of Fedw Fawr had been scoped out by various different people (such as Matt Lewis). Si Panton and Jon Ratcliffe checked it out about 5 years ago, and despite making a pact to return and develop the place, never went back. When Pete moved to the nearby Llangoed Si tipped him off about the potentially awesome bouldering crag on his door step. Soon enough Pete got curious and went for a look. In contrast to the hapless Panton and Ratcliffe team he moved quickly and climbed pretty much all the best lines over a series of manic visits.

Pete’s best effort was the stunning (and brilliantly named) Mônster 8A, which tackles an obvious line through the left side of the main roof. Si popped over with Gav Foster and Andy Godber and picked off a few good grade 6 lines. There are now nearly 30 distinct problems, with some potential for more. To download a free pdf guide to the crag click here.

Si managed to shoot some footage of Pete doing the first ascent of Mônster, and a repeat of Not Your Problem 7B:

Mônster 8A FA from Simon Panton on Vimeo.

Not Your Problem 7B from Simon Panton on Vimeo.

Relevant links: