Up on the Bulging Wall on top of Little Orme you will find Cheech Marin. This fine problem was first climbed back in 2004 as a 7B+ stand up by Paul Houghoughi, and on the same day as a 7C+ sds by Mark Katz. Subsequently one of the key holds broke, a little at first, then almost completely. Both the stand up and the sds version of the line have remained unclimbed ever since.
Recently Dave Noden wandered up to have a look, little else being dry or in a climbable condition that day. Dave warmed up trying the stand up version of the line and after numerous attempts with various sequences he surprised himself by sticking a small crimp in some crozzley rock to the right of the obvious sloper, before promptly falling off. It was at this point that he went and turned the camera on and started filming.
After a few more fumbled attempts he stuck the move again and continued up to jugs below the vegetation. Cheech Marin was no longer defunct!
When asked for a grade suggestion, Dave answered thus:
“7C+? It could be harder, I doubt it’s easier. When I tried it after having a few goes on the sitter I couldn’t really touch it, but the go I did it it felt quite easy??? So who knows, I am almost certain it isn’t 7C or 8B if that helps.”
To read more about the ascent check out Dave’s blog: Dave’s blog
Earlier in the year Dave also climbed an old project line at the right side of the steep face at Manor Crag. ManOrMouse climbs the line just right of the ‘wet pocket project’. The ledges to the right are, obviously, out of bounds. No grade, but there is a film of the ascent:
ManOrMouse from Chris Davies on Vimeo.