Dyffryn Peris - over the years the flanks of this dramatic, glacier-scoured valley have been searched for potential by each new generation of climbers. Surely after such intense investigation there can’t be anything left to find, can there? Big G knows different.
Dear NWB readers,
Unchartered territory a mile from Llanberis! - must be gash beyond words.
Not so fast...
What do we look for in a bouldering facet? Blankness or a scaled down climbing cliff; fired with features?
Here is the latter, including a fin with the most inviting jug, thus positioned to tempt great swingage and top-grappling!
The rock is clean orange granite-like stuff with large aesthetic holds, so shaped and angled as to provide confusingly little value for those planning upward movement.
There are distinctive old-school problems; some threatening to involve the discomfort of a jam - but by no means all.
It is only the landing that would ever have put past punters off the trail of this fine feature, (but of course using ‘modern techniques’ this isn’t an issue).
Access starts from the lay-by at the southeast end of Llyn Peris; proceed to gr 598 584.
The situations here are terrific - quite a vista.
Tis a black art to us – but across the valley, capped by permanent dark cloud are, what our dizzy mountaineering peers would call...mountains; the mostly boulder-less domes of the Glyderau, ascending into pointless gloom (like mountaineers).
Despite reasonable ledges below the actual wall, the descent to the road is, in bouldering terms - abhorrent.
The unnecessary steepness combined with the jungle-density of bracken may inspire one to strap mats tightly about ones person and simply roll to the track below despite evident risks.
God guard the smooth-soled (for they shall probably end up back down the bottom quite early on).
Love, Big G
Recent work in this field has culminated in the establishment of Robins’ Third Law.
By using simple calculus it was demonstrated that a sloper is at its maximum potential when one has swung beneath it; far enough to enjoy purchase, but not so far as to cause excessive outward swing, with resultant loss of friction and control. (Variations of friction co-efficient and sloper angle made no difference to the findings.)
The conclusion; one should swing in by 12 degrees from the vertical. No more, no less.