Pete Edwards has been busy developing some boulders in the Bryn Engan woods close to Plas y Brenin in Capel Curig. This week he ticked one of his main target lines, the superb looking Prowess 7B+, so has decided to go public and reveal the locations of the seven new problems in this area. (See the approach notes at the bottom of the report.)
”Prowess takes the obvious prow feature from a sit down start (left hand undercut crimp, right hand ledge) and finishes directly above. On the face to its right are OGYDd 6C+: from a sit down start on small crimps on the left of the face, make a tricky move to a sidepull to finish on the jug at the high point of the face. King Arthur's Allowance 4C takes the juggy line up the wide crack, again from a sitting start. Fluffion 6A+ links these two together, starting just left of King Arthur's and, avoiding the top, finishes at the top of OGYDd.
The face of Bull's Eye looks incredible but is sadly a bit short. The climbs are named after the concentric circles adorning the middle of the rock - originally thought to be fossils but later found out to be dirt... Three problems can be found on the pocketed face: Bull's Eye 7A takes the obvious line of pockets in the middle from a sit down start, finishing just left of the tree. Bull's Arse 6A takes the line of pockets to the right of the tree and sadly requires a very low start on the lowest pockets with a right toe out by the aręte. Finally, Bull's Large Protrusion 6C takes the aręte to the left of the face, to finish around the top of Bull's Eye.”
Bull's Eye Boulder from Pete Edwards on Vimeo.
Approach: from the back of the Plas y Brenin boulder, follow the vague track to the forest track above. From here, turn left and walk down hill until you see a small cairn above the track. Turn off at the cairn and head straight up the hill. Contour around the small hillock to the left and continue up the hill. The clean prow of Prowess can be seen in front of you. The face of Bull's Eye is down and right from here slightly.
Alternative approach: From the bridge below the Plas y Brenin ski slope, turn left and walk past the Plas y Brenin boulder. Stay on the track until another large track turns up the hill on your right. Walk up hill until a small cairn appears above you to the left. Turn off at the cairn and head straight up the hill. Contour around the small hillock to the left and continue up the hill. The clean prow of Prowess can be seen in front of you. The face of Bull's Eye is down and right from here slightly.