On Friday Pete Robins had an incredibly productive first ascent session at Porth Ysgo, ticking off six quality lines up to 7B+!
1. Crouch Potato 6C+
The crouching start to Throbbins Arete. Start with the obvious right hand hold and a poor hold on the arÍte at the same height. A hard move gains a poor sloper on the lip; pull up right into the stand up line. If the boulder stuck at the base moves a sitting start 7A+ seems likely.
2. Seams a Bit Much 7A+!!
The thin seam/crack to the right is very high and has a hard section near the top. Start on the left with good holds then commit to the crack. A jump dismount onto the adjacent boulder might be possible but falling off would not be pretty. E6 soloing for sure!
3. Project Zero 7B+!
The impressive wall right of Seams a Bit Much gives a compelling highball challenge. Start down and right of the thin seam/crack; make hard moves up to get established above the lip then trend up rightwards with thin technical climbing. 7A! with a step on from the adjacent boulder.
4. Good Vibrations 7B
Left of Pet Sounds and just right of Uncle Peteís Groove. Specified start: pull on with opposition side pulls and make a big move up right for a good hold on the slopey lip. Top out via a difficult rockover.
A much harder direct start coming up the wall just to the right remains as an obvious challenge.
5. 99% Cocoa 7B
Obvious line on the boulder adjacent to the Pet Sounds block. Start sitting; pull on with a crimpy stack for your right hand and a low pinch on the hanging arÍte for your left; a heel-toe cam on the right adds some stability but it has to be abandoned at some point and that is when most people part company with the rock. If you manage to stay on and latch the good hold continue more easily up the slabby rib to the top.
6. Stowaway 7B+
The north west, landward arÍte of the Ysgo Flange boulder gives an intense, powerful problem on slopers.; pull on with a positive hold on the lip and a good left hand hold under the lip. Follow the lip leftwards to the arÍte before pulling for the top. Use a thin pad for the start; if there still isnít enough room then scrape the landing out a bit more.