Tom Newman has climbed a stellar new 8A roof line on Pigeon's Cave boulders just to the right of the classic 7B, The Secret. Mike 'Psyche' Hart noticed the line between attempts on the mega roof route Dark Energy and (perhaps regrettably) invited Tom Newman to come and try it. The first session was spent trying to figure out the sequence which they didn't crack until the end of the session when their arms had wilted.
On the next session the boys traded goes but it was Tom who found himself at the end and In For The Race was born. Tom was enthusiastic about the quality and expressed surprise that it hadn't been done. North Wales resident 'hoover' Pete Robins usually takes care of such obvious pickings but he said he never got round to it despite it being on the list. Also there used to be a block in the middle of it that made it harder but that has disappeared at some point.
The problem is still climbable at some high tides but it's probably best to go a couple of hours after high tide to make sure you can access it. Usual disclaimers about coastal conditions apply.
The video of two 8B+ wads making it look pretty tricky is here:
In for the Race 8A from Tom Newham on Vimeo.
Report by Chris Doyle.
Update: Following further hold breakage Liam Halsey re-climbed the line, and others have followed suit - the emerging consensus is quality 7C.