The storms of last winter left quite a mark on the wooded boulder field below Clogwyn y Bustach in Nant Gwynant. Numerous big trees came crashing down; some have revealed previously blocked sections of rock. The southwest face of the ‘Nam Traverse boulder is now clear of trees – Noel Craine and Mark Lynden noticed this and set about unlocking a sequence across the wall. They got close on the link but no cigars were smoked. Just as they were leaving they met Si Panton and generously offered the first ascent over.
Si got stuck in and after a bit of sequence refinement managed to climb it. Welshy yn Dod Adra rates about 7A. It starts at the far right side of the face on a pair of good pockets. An initial steady section leads to the central crack. The standard now ramps up significantly as the smooth shield is crossed with sustained difficulty all the way to the final moves up to a large flatty on the left shoulder. An easy top out would be possible but would require a lot of gardening.
”It’s a really cool traverse, very intense on the shield section and drop-able right to the end. At the start of the shield section there is a high pocket – the lip of this broke and what remained was full of mud so I avoided it and stayed low on the smaller holds. It probably wouldn’t make much difference if you did use it.” said Si after the ascent.
See page 312 in the new NWB guide. Also worth noting is that the superb ’Nam Traverse is certainly harder than either of the ’Nam Direct lines and should be graded 6A+.
And finally, A. Morris has squeezed in a sds line just right of Bill Psyches. To You 7A starts on the right end of the good crimp rail. Move right to a good flatty and grasp the sharp incut pocket as a left hand gaston before making a long and assertive move to the large slopey rail directly up. A 6B+ version takes the sharp pocket with the right hand.