Dyffryn Mymbyr continues to provide first ascent possibilities. Pete Robins and Ben Bransby paid a visit to the Kragle Boulder, up above the Mallory Boulder, and came away with a clutch of quality first ascents.
Jennifer Slopez (7B) is Project 17 listed in the new guide (see page 438). Pete climbed this first from standing: pull on with crimps and snatch the sloping lip then move up to big holds and an easier top out. Ben then did the harder low start with his right hand in the low break – this added a desperate move and thus bumped the grade to 7C. An even harder sds will be possible for the hones.
Project 18 yielded three different variations. Jim Scarey (7B) uses a lovely left hand crimp, in combination with bad feet, to make a slap to a big chicken head on the lip. Ben got the FA on this one.
Brad Split (7B) uses a pair of pockets, again with terrible feet, to snatch right to a crack and the top. Pete got this one first, plus the following: Robert de Smearo (7A). Start on jugs on far right, move left into crack holds, go left again to a pocket then up to the lip, as for Brad Split.
Mark Dicken returned to the Quack Crack area to sort out some unfinished business from previous explorations. Love Battery sds went at 7A while the sitter to Ball’s Groove just to the right went at 6C+. For more info and footage check out Mark’s blog.. See page 443 in the new Mountain Crags guide.
Stop Press: The original version of Robert de Smearo, which Ben Walley climbed last September, has come to light. Sean Seam (6C) is the same line but but goes for the top straight away, instead of moving left to the pockets.