Jon Ratcliffe has climbed a brilliant left hand finish to Bustach Prow at Clogwyn y Bustach. Got to Pick a Pocket or Two (7A+/B) follows the prow to the weird tooth hold then breaks out left onto the steep face, making crux moves to get established in a good pocket, before going for the lip and rocking out left into the scoop.
Jon also climbed a direct version of Hearts and Minds from the obvious sitting start position with right hand in a damp pocket (lined with some Frankenjura style tin foil to hold back the moisture) and left on an obvious flatty. This improves the problem significantly and makes it into a proper non-eliminate line. Itís probably a bit harder than the original, so expect top end 7A.
See pages 455 and 453 in the NWB 3.1 guide. The footage below shows Jon on the FA of Got to Pick a Pocket or Two and Luke Brooks getting a quick repeat of Hearts and Minds direct.