Geordie lad Tim Blake has made the 2nd ascent of Wedgie Wall (8B), Danny Cattellís much discussed Tonfedd test piece. Touted in the guide as having possibly North Wales' hardest move, it has held off a number of very strong suitors.
ĒIn terms of actually doing it I found it pretty tricky. Iíd tried it when I first got to uni and thought it would go pretty fast as on my flash go I was grabbing at the hold you lurch to from the tiny crimp. But after 3-4 sessions spread out over a year thatís about as close as I was getting doing it Dannyís way.Ē
Explained Tim, before adding:
ĒI found some new foot beta that suited me a bit better. It meant I had to really use the tiny hold to move my feet but it made the hard lurch a bit smaller and I could keep my feet on. This way worked well but Iíd only get 3-4 goes each session before Iíd start to spilt and that hold is just not usable with tape on (I tried, it just cuts through the tape). However, this way still took me 3 sessions to do. Luckily I managed to do it 1st go on the 3rd session. Itís a very niche problem and a fair bit harder than any of the other 8Bs Iíve done in Wales. A >70kg ascent would be a really impressive thing. Hats off to DC!Ē
To see footage of Tim's ascent click here
Anybody who hasnít seen Chris Doyleís original film, Wedgie Wall, is in for a treat Ė itís one of the best short climbing films around, both very funny and, like the problem in question, very hardcore. To see it click here.